I'm currently working on a second-quarter fourteenth century wardrobe based on the Luttrell Psalter and Romance of Alexander. This twenty-five year span is interesting to me not just because it seems quintessentially Medieval - in terms of clothing, it represents a shift from the earlier rectangular construction to forms that become increasingly more fitted; as far as cookery goes, it marks a notable milestone in recording the foodways of Medieval kitchens and medicine. One of the very earliest English manuscripts, Doctrina faciendi diversa cibaria, dates from 1325 and is the basis for Ancient Cookery (1381) and Forme of Curye (1390). [1] From across the Channel, we have Le Viandier de Tallievent, with content dating from 1300, and then Le Ménagier de Paris (1390's).
The plan is to create a mix-and-match collection - what I call the 'Medieval Professional Wardrobe' - of kirtles, gowns and accessories which will carry me through a week-long event with a bit of minimal laundering. Fortunately, laundry is a historically-accurate activity.
Item - smocks. Lightweight white/off-white linen. Three would be the bare minimum number, five adequate, seven optimal. I like the Nockert Type 1 construction for my smocks; continuous front/back, side gores, and gussets under the arms. Linen on-hand; needs laundering.
Item - kyrtles. A variety of linen, at least one in wool. Cut body on Herjolfsnes 39; neckline and long sleeves from H38. Buttoned sleeves. Experiment with the upper-class boat neckline on one of these; the remainder will be more conservative cuts to serve as burgher-class every-day clothing. Sangria linen kyrtle in progress.
Item - gowns. Wool, H39 body. At least two; modeled on the pink lady with the squirrel in Luttrell.
Item - surcote. Upper-class, sideless, modeled on Luttrell Ladies; goes with the upper-class boat necklined kirtle. (Lower priority)
Item - fillet, red silk tablet-woven with laurel mounts. Warping in progress.
Item - kerchiefs. Linen, several more than I have...
Item - hoods. Two, wool.
Item - smocked linen apron. New skill to learn!
Item - hose/stockings. I have several knitted knee-highs, but only one pair of proper linen ones. Make up to 4 more pairs; use linen and wool scraps.
Item - shoes. Purple slippers in progress.
Dress accessories already in kit - black boots, garters, belt, square kerchief (1), rings (two gold, one silver with garnet).
[1] All three of these manuscripts are related content-wise and are available in one volume, Curye on Inglysch.
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